回家后,我时常会想起那份白肉酱。虽然在美国买不到意大利那样香的肉,但我通过加入Soffritto 和茴香籽,成功复刻了那份难忘的味道。Soffritto 也被称为“holy trinity”(洋葱、胡萝卜、芹菜),是法国和意大利常用的基本原料搭配,就像中国的葱姜蒜一样。其实在科莫湖的肉酱中,他们可能也是用了soffritto相似的调料,只是他们切的很细或者只用了汁,所以我们在肉酱表面上看不到蔬菜的影子。八月,我把自己做出的食谱分享在Stroll杂志我的专栏上。美国人的食谱需要板板眼眼多少茶勺或者汤勺,中国人则只要大概,自己会灵活把握。
我选择了意大利肉肠和牛肉的组合,使肉汁的味道更加浓郁。对我来说,没有西红柿的肉酱其实更简单,配上新鲜的蛋面、干面,长的短的都很完美。
小火炒香soffritto
今年六月,朋友送我的长豇豆种子开始结果了。
第一次种长豇豆 - 既好看也好吃
我突然想到,长豆角配科莫湖的肉酱肯定会非常好吃。马上就试做了两次。正好那些天家里有朋友来,尝过的朋友都赞不绝口。连平时抱怨不要吃面食的老史也是次次清盘。
那天用了有机的彩虹胡萝卜,加上葱和芹菜。
先炒好肉酱 其实彩虹紫色胡萝卜有点儿影响颜值
豆角加一点儿西红柿很提味儿
加西红柿让我想起小时候特别喜欢蒜,西红柿和豆角配在一起的味道。
豆角炒一下加入一部分炒好的肉酱这面条的配料就做好了。
那天有朋友来,我配了从意大利寄回来的干意面。
考虑到有朋友不吃面食,我试了用金黄的小土豆,还有新鲜的玉米代替面条来配豆角肉酱都很好吃。现在也正好是新鲜玉米的季节,美国朋友也特别赞同这个配法。
这个专栏已经开了两年多了。一直没有把里面的食谱故事用中文分享出来。这次想做一下尝试,为想学做西餐的朋友们提供一下细节,希望有用。
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七月初,与杂志社讨论八月的食谱时,我想到了这个简单又满足的面酱。主编一听我的想法,立刻表示赞同。今天这个食谱故事在八月的Stroll Historic Brookhaven杂志上发表了。由于版面的限制,每次的稿子都在四百字左右。如果杂志的广告多,食谱故事有时只会占一个版面,照片较少。
这个食谱看上去和科莫湖的那个白色肉酱好像变化太大了,但其精髓的启示却是来自那里。豆角,西红柿和蒜配在一起则是我小时候喜欢的中国北方味道。
我想我们人类历史的发展不也是不断地交融,演变,更新才会前进的吗?这个食谱很准确的体现了这个英文专栏的宗旨,
“Nancy的探奇厨房”,每个食谱都来自一个令人兴奋的体验
以下是英文的原版,新鲜豆角配无番茄肉酱
Every Recipe a New Adventure
White Ragù with Fresh Beans
In fall 2021, after driving through Italy and France for a few weeks, my husband and I took a break in Bellagio, Lake Como. Friends recommended Trattoria San Giacomo, a small casual restaurant where the standout dish was a simple White Ragù with Fettuccine. I’d never tried white ragù before, but it was so delicious that we returned three more times. Once home, I replicated it, finding it simpler than traditional red ragù. Recently, with fresh beans from our garden, I decided to combine them.
This ragù pairs well with any shape of pasta, or you can substitute sweet corn or steamed golden potatoes. It’s quick, easy, and comforting. I hope you and your family enjoy it!
Ingredients
Ragù:
- 3/4 lb ground pork and mild Italian sausage mix
- 1/2 lb grass-fed ground beef
- 4 tbsp olive oil + 1 tbsp for beans
- 1 yellow onion, finely chopped
- 2 carrots (rainbow-colored if available), finely chopped
- 3 celery stalks, finely chopped
- 1/3 tsp fennel seeds
- 1/4 tsp red chili flakes (optional)
- 1/2 cup white wine
- 1 tbsp butter
Beans:
- 1 lb fresh beans, chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 5 small tomatoes, cubed
- Salt and pepper to taste
Preparation
- Heat olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Sauté onion, carrots, and celery for 10 minutes to create a soffritto. Add fennel seeds and chili flakes.
- Add the ground meat to soffritto and sauté for about 10 minutes. Pour in the wine, then add butter, salt, and pepper. Cook for another 15-20 minutes. Remove from the pot and set aside.
- In the same pot, add 1 tbsp of olive oil and minced garlic. Sauté briefly.
- Add the beans and cook until they change color, then add the tomatoes. Cook for about 3 minutes. Add the desired amount of ragù to the beans and let it cook for about 10 minutes. Normally, the meat ragù can be used for more than one meal.
Garlic and tomato complement the fresh beans beautifully, while the ragù adds excellent flavor. It’s a great way to enjoy plenty of vegetables in the summer.
Enjoy your cooking!
希望你也可以在家做出自己喜欢的肉酱。如果有问题敬请留言提问。