June 10th, Saturday, Day 13, from Ages to Burgos, 24 km. 6:30am, 12.7°C (54°F)
Today’s distance would be short and mild in incline. It should be an easy day. 

(From Google Images)

I’d love to see the sunrise today. The morning air was crisp, the landscape pretty.

Last night, one of the roommates had a breathing machine/an oxygen machine to regulate his breath. With the room so small, and three snorers, my ear plugs didn’t fend off the sounds at all. Some people rose early again to pack for the day, I peeked at my phone – 5:15am. Another hour or so of sleep would be so nice to give me energy and clear mind, the bed seemingly a heavy magnet holding me to it tight like all there was left was gravity. Mercy, mercy, mercy, please… The noises persisted. Forget about sleeping! I got up, and prepared myself for the walk. Can’t fight it? Join it!! (lol) The good thing was that I had failed to find a dorm room in Burgos the day before, so I would have a single room all to myself tonight! I couldn’t wait to get a good sleep tonight!!

Early morning charm – a sole treat for early risers. Now I remembered Yy’s saying – everything had its silver lining. So true! This second, while enjoying the dawn, the morning dew, the snails (gosh, so many snails on the road and on the dew-ladened grass), the freshest air of the day, I no longer agonized about having to get up early. I should just pick up what I could enjoy for the moment, and trot on. Buen Camino!

Ascending began soon after I stepped out of the house, I heard myself panting – was I hungry, thirsty, or lacking sleep, that led to this breathless condition so early in the day? Then there I was, walking in the clouds/haze, round and round the mountain trails I hiked. I felt as if I was in a prolonged roller-coaster ride, in ultra slow motion – up, down, some smooth coasting, up and down again! What a thrill! I also imagined myself in a Chinese fairy tale from ancient times, walking in the clouds with other immortals, feeling royal and unearthly, in spite of the uneven grounds under my feet in reality. “Is this a fairy land in real life?” I wondered.

Out of the fairyland I emerged,
Poppies surged.
A delightful moment,
The bees urged!

I was still lost in the joyful moment of fairyland, flowers and bees, when I realized that I was almost there – 3 more km to the city proper of Burgos. The temperature was in high 70’s.
A single room with a bath – all to myself. Yeah! A bed, a desk, a chair. 40 euros’ worth of comfort and knock-out sleep! Can’t wait. I sped up my pace.
After I checked in, I found out that the hostel owner’s son, Su, turned out to be a handsome young man who had studied Chinese and had lived in Da Lian, China for nine years, and could speak fluent Chinese. He was very friendly and hospitable. I felt as if I found a friend from my motherland! – that space, all of a sudden, felt like home to me.
Because of the Pandemic, Su came to Burgos from China to help his parents’ hostel business. Burgos was new to him as well. His family immigrated from Cuba to Spain, while he left his Cuban home for China years before. As a newcomer in Spain, he was also learning the local customs, hostel business tricks, etc. Challenges of an immigrant in a new land! 

After settling down in the hostel, I went out for a stroll in the city square. Burgos seemed to be a place that had caught the most attention when I arrived there – so many people walking about, taking pictures, standing by tables across from the Cathedral sipping beer, wine, chatting, and laughing. I purchased an admission ticket, went into the Cathedral for a few hours of enrichment. Stay curious and keep learning…

The city under the scorching sun still showed its vitality, liveliness and charm every corner I turned. It rained dogs and cats yesterday, and it continued to drizzle this morning. It was all sunny and pretty now.

It was way past my lunch time, the cafes and restaurants wouldn’t open for regular food until after 7 or 7:30pm. I was so hungry that I walked into a cafe, and ordered some snacks/tapas – a squid kabob and a slice of potato pancake. I was surprised to realize how good an appetite I had been having, and many types of food seemed inviting to me. Was it due to the walk? 

The city of Burgos happened to be hosting a Food Festival that weekend in the nearby park. Some food trucks sold various types of food, attracting many visitors. Many other vendors sold their artworks and miscellaneous items as well. A local dance school organized its students and performed for the public in the park. Food, souvenirs, dances, music and crowds…, Oh my, how I loved them all!

As I walked around to enjoy the square by the Cathedral, I happened upon a wedding in progress. When the bride and the groom gracefully walked out of their church, the well-dressed guests tossed rice and ribbons their way, and sounded out noise-makers. What a happy fanfare to them! What a treat for me! 

It was a very brief but fun and enriched experience in Burgos. There was sunshine that day, well-dressed people for the wedding, out-of-towners for the festival, locales finding their places and enjoying their lives there, the pilgrims from afar with trekking poles, and all those arts one can see, and, of course, the long history that footprinted much of the city. A must-see when I return. And I shall return…
I spent so much time experiencing many aspects of the city that I couldn’t find time to sit down for a dinner in the city before nightfall. I became worried that I might not be able to make my 3 km distance back safely and comfortably before dark. I decided to buy some snacks for dinner, next day’s breakfast, etc. -- there they were: fruits, ham, cheese, yogurt, crackers and a can of lemon beer. A Camino friend recommended lemon beer, finally I got a chance to try it. There was no fridge, nor microwave. I got to plan well.  The hostel owner’s handsome son spoke Chinese. That was enough to lead me to think that I met someone from my motherland. For that moment, in that moment's mindset, whoever spoke Chinese were home townsmen!!

Today’s actual distance: 29.5 km

Keyword:
Enriched