"麦迪逊公园十一号"（Eleven Madison Park）简写成EMP，是纽约七星俱乐部成员之一. 我这里所说的七星俱乐部是指米其林三颗星，加上纽约时报的四颗星. 目前只有四家纽约餐厅获此殊荣。十一麦迪逊公园还在久负盛名的S. Pellegrino的世界50家最佳餐厅2013年名单上排名第五。这是所有纽约餐厅在此名单上的最高排名。[1] 

麦迪逊公园十一号近一年前将它的品尝菜单价格从$195提至225美元。这样，两个人的晚餐，加上每道菜的配对葡萄酒，税和小费，价格为954美元。从而，十一麦迪逊公园成为纽约第五个最昂贵的餐厅。 

麦迪逊公园十一号主厨 Daniel Humm 不仅使用食品分子烹调新技术，还把制作过程像表演节目一样呈现在餐桌上。近三个半小时的用餐，你能见到老式绞肉机，烤盘，小推车，化学制剂瓶,魔术扑克牌，等等。客人不仅享受了味美，精致，色彩亮丽的食品，还要亲自上手参与制作食品。是一次很有趣的饮食体验。

在用餐即将结束时，我被约请去参观厨房。经理让甜点师专为我做了一道甜饮料：Arnold Palmer。我亲眼看到了干净.整洁又有序的厨房和工作节奏极其紧张的35名厨师和6位甜点师。 

 在我走出厨房的时候,看到了使我感触颇深的“麦迪逊公园十一号”贴在墙上的座右铭。 座右铭是：“Make It Nice.”

下面是麦迪逊公园十一号2013秋季主厨品尝菜单。

    

第一道：CHEDDAR奶酪小饼干 - 咸味黑与白的苹果酱小饼干

纽约传统黑色和白色的小饼干通常用香草和巧克力软糖制成。但这饼干是咸味的。有点像奶酪饼干。在里面加了点苹果酱是其味道很有趣。..

1st: CHEDDAR - Savory Black and White Cookie with Apple
It looks like New York black-and-white cookie which usually made with vanilla fondant and chocolate fondant. This biscuit is made of savory, and tasted like a cheese cracker 。 Some applesauce in between makes it tasted very interesting.

第二道：生蚝 - 康科德紫葡萄，碾碎的干小麦，和酸模草

生蚝是非常鲜，嫩，海鲜味十足。康科德葡萄先冷冻再打磨成粉。康科德葡萄的香味道融化人生蚝。 这是一道很有想像力的菜。

2nd: OYSTER -Grapes, Bulgar Wheat, and Sorrel
The Oyster was extremely fresh, tender with full flavor of the ocean. The Concord grape was frozen first and then powdered, Grape taste melted into oyster which is a fantastic creativity.

第三道：虾：腌海胆，鹅肝，和细叶芹。

腌过的海胆，磨成粉，调成汁，浇在甜美的缅因州大虾上。鹅肝酱配上绿色的细叶芹泡沫。好味道！。

3rd: SHRIMP: Marinated with Sea Urchin, Foie Gras, and Chervil
Sea urchin sauce coats sweet Maine shrimp. Foie gras paste with chervil foam. Good taste!

第4道：第一部分 - 熏鲟鱼-沙巴翁与香葱油

泡沫状沙巴翁，浇在绿色韭菜油制的熏鲟鱼块上。熏鲟鱼切丁与绿色香葱油放在一个开口的蛋壳低部。使用鸡蛋与苦艾酒调出来的沙巴翁在上面.香葱油味道真好.由于香葱油是在鸡蛋的底部，所以,你一定要用勺将蛋内原料搅动一番后, 才能每口都吃到真正的味道.

4th Part One: STURGEON - Sabayon with Chive Oil
Creamy Sabayon covers a base of chunks of smoked sturgeon in green chive oil. Smoked sturgeon with green chive oil is at the bottom of the egg shell. Sabayon is on the top part of the shell. I love the flavor of smoked sturgeon in the chive oil. You need to use the spoon to stir everything up then start eating. In that way, you will taste everything in one bite.

第4道：第二部分：鲟鱼 - 烟熏的百吉饼碎末，酱菜，和鱼子酱

这道菜是厚片的熏鲟鱼, 鱼子酱，酱黄瓜, 生菜,半个煮鹌鹑蛋和烟熏的百吉饼碎末. 熏鲟鱼用一个钟形的玻璃罩送上桌来. 打开玻璃罩, 熏鲟鱼片下面是冒着烟的苹果炭木.
这道精致的开胃菜包含了熏鲟鱼的美味结合烤面包的脆香,又加上酱菜的酸,生菜的甜,鱼子酱的咸，奶酪的奶油香.真可谓是味道丰富.

4th Part Two: STURGEON - Smoked with Everything Bagel Crumble, Pickles and Caviar
This dish combine together beautifully as the thick slice of delicious smoked sturgeon is combined with the crispy thin bread, tart of pickles, sweet lettuce,  , salty caviar and creamy cheese. All come together with a wonderful taste

面包, 黄油, 带有鹿肉的黄油. 面包松软, 酥脆.小麻袋保温很好.

Bread, Butter, and Butter fortified with Venison Trimmings

 

第五道:鹅肝- 糖浆李子和苦杏仁

这是一道超出想像的菜。微咸鹅肝分层夹在3片极薄的香甜脆层中. 经糖浆浸过的李子带有酸甜味。 李子酱使酸甜味更足。杏仁不苦,却增加了香味.

5th: FOIE GRAS - Terrine with Plum and Bitter Almond
This is a remarkable taste and visual dish. 3 sweet crisp layers of sandwich presented with blocks of foie gras, Both layers and foie gras were cut in a perfect condition. Sweet and sour pickled plum scrupled plum bits with plum jelly. Almond added even more flavor.

第六道：胡萝卜 – 绞碎的胡萝卜,黑麦面包片和调味品

这是充满趣味的一道蔬菜. 胡萝卜来自纽约州北部的一家农场.一位年轻的小伙子用最传统的手摇绞肉机在你面前将胡萝卜绞碎。胡萝卜软,甜.配上用鹌鹑蛋，盐，辣酱，青鱼末等千奇百味的组合。有意思!

“鞑靼”一词使我回忆起了上个世纪九十年代在德国享用的鞑靼牛堡.盛调味品的盘子使我想起了化学实验室.

6th: CARROT - Tartare with Rye Bread and Condiments
This is a very interesting dish. It’s time for you to hand on! Carrots came from Upstate New York and was grinded by a traditional meat grinder.  The carrot was sweet and moist.  Once you add every piece of seasonings – the combination with quails egg, salt, carrot vinaigrette, bluefish shavings. It is a good invention to  serve the vegetables. The word  “Tartare” reminded me that the tartare Hamburg I had in German back in ninety’s . The plate which holds the all kinds condiment reminded me of a chemical lab.

第七道：龙虾 - 甘蓝和腌意大利猪肉

Guanciale是用猪的面颊或腮帮子未经熏烤得制成的意大利式咸肉。一片薄得透明Guanciale搭在一段龙虾上.烤焦的抱子甘蓝捻成末，与绿色的抱子甘蓝, 红色的龙虾 和褐色的Guanciale很漂亮. 确切地说,龙虾味道不够鲜美,并且烤过了头.

7th: LOBSTER: Poached with Brussel Sprouts and Guanciale
Guanciale is an unsmoked Italian bacon prepared with pig’s jaw or cheeks. A thin slice of Guanciale draped on a piece of lobster, with brussel sprout puree, roasted leaves of brussel sprout, brussel sprout crumble, and roasted whole brussel sprouts. Lobster did not have much taste. It was also overcooked.

烤制过程中的南瓜: 填满黄油和香料的南瓜。发酵面包环绕南瓜开口以防止香味跑掉.
Butternut Squash pasted with butter and herbs within. A sourdough ring is pasted on the squash to keep the aromatics in.

             

第八道：南瓜-用蔓越莓，南瓜子和发酵面包烤制

南瓜有着秋天的颜色,南瓜是秋天的象征. 满地红红的蔓越莓在告诉你这是新英格兰的秋天.这道菜的亮点是完美的涂着糖釉的烤南瓜种子. 鸡油菌蘑菇酱和鸡绝对使这道菜成为纯朴的秋天的代表作.

8th: SQUASH - Roasted with Cranberries, Pumpkin Seeds and Sourdough
Squash has color of fall and the red cranberry means the harvest season of New England. The pumpkin seeds were perfectly roasted with a layer of crispy glaze.  Chanterelle mushroom puree and chicken made this dish a good representation of New England fall.

这道主菜有两种选择：烤鸭肉或烤鹿肉。鸭子每天都可以吃到。我选了鹿肉。秋天是狩猎季节。鹿是这一季节的首要猎物。吃过不同烧制过程的鹿肉，我想尝一尝“十一麦迪逊公园”的鹿肉做得怎么样。这是制作过程中的鹿肉。

第九道 第一部分：烤肉串 - 鹿肉灌肠，珍珠洋葱和鸡油菌烧烤

这一项是菜单上没有的，服务员拿上一个闪亮的不锈钢手提带盖的烤炉。 她把烤炉盖拿掉，我一眼看到里面红红的热炭。肉串需要烤一分钟。是我自己要看着烤。

9th Part One: VENISON: Grilled with Pearl Onions and Chanterelles
Waitress brought a shiny stainless steel portable covered grill to the table. Removal of the cover reveals a bed of hot charcoal and a grate on which rests small skewers with grilled meat. I was told to monitor the skewer for one minute. It was fun and delicious.

              

第9道 第二部分：烤鹿肉，梨和Sunchokes

Sunchokes是像芋头一类的根茎植物。鹿肉烤得很嫩。我点对了

9th Part Two: VENISON- Roasted with Pears and Sunchokes
I made a good choice. Venison was tender and tasted great!

                                          

             

第十道：奶酪 -椒盐脆饼，芥末，和香槟葡萄

吃过主道菜，是该吃奶酪的时候了。 服务员给了我一个野餐篮，让我自己解开盖布去发现里面有什么。原来里面有佛蒙特州碧玉山软外皮干酪，专门为EMP制作并老化了3周的啤酒。 紫芥末酱，橄榄和很甜的葡萄。啤酒和奶酪都很棒。

10th: GREENSWARD - Pretzel, Mustard, and Champagne Grapes
Jasper Hill soft rind cheese from Vermont, washed with Ale specially bottled for EMP, and aged for 3 weeks in Bleecker Caves. Violet Wasabi jam. Very sweet grapes。

                



   
               

第十一道：麦芽奶昔 - 鸡蛋与香草奶油和带气的水

甜食从此道开始. 我是一个对甜食不太感兴趣的人。但我得承认，奶昔味道很好。

11th: MALT: Egg Cream with Vanilla and Seltzer

                

第十二道：苹果 冰糕与月桂叶，焦糖布丁和芙蓉花

颜色漂亮的蜂蜜焦糖布丁。

12th: Apple Sorbet with Bay Leaf, Crème Brûlée, and Hibiscus

 

 

第十三道：红薯芝士蛋糕与蜂蜜和栗子

13th: SWEET POTATO: Cheesecake with Honey and Chestnut



服务员用牌变出了我的巧克力品种.

第十四道：涂了巧克力与海盐的椒盐脆饼

14th: PRETZEL: Chocolate Covered with Sea Salt

 


你想喝多少就喝多少的威士忌。



 带回家的早餐.




干净的厨房 1: 甜点准备区.





干净的厨房 2: 主菜准备区.






特地为我做的甜食:"Arnold Palmer".





十一麦迪逊公园的座右铭是:”Make It Nice.”

Eleven Madison Park
11 Madison Ave
New York, NY 10010
http://elevenmadisonpark.com/

本文内容版权归CCHLQLZ100所有，任何单位及个人未经许可，不得擅自转载或翻译.